So Bird and I got out of the water at South Beach from a wack-ass session yestermorning. That shit suuuuuucked. Anyone who says it was fun is straight up lying. False. Bullshit. Maybe Thigh to waist high at best with a high tide filling in. So bummed I actually paddled out.
Anywhoo, our buddies Carlos Bam Bam Del Olmo, and Tony G were already in Palm Beach and had a visual on it by 12:00 pm and said it was worth it. We packed up immediately and was upcoast within the hour and unbelievably....scored?! We pulled up to a spot (shown in pic above) and didn't waste any time hunting around checking all other spots. We paddled out and it was a bit racy and walled, with a very shallow sandbar. Waves were in the waist to shoulder high range and were rifling accross a shallow sandbar. If you were a goofyfoot (which I am), you were psyched! Waves were fast and hollow! Most barrels weren't makeable, but it was nice to actually be up and riding more than 10 yards (aka South Beach) . We surfed for about an hour and a half, packed it up and drove back home. It's been a hot minute since I've gone up the road and actually scored for once. Sorry about the bragging, every once in a while, even I win.
-MG |