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Surf Check: Hawaii Surf Sessions Winter 2010

Monday, February 15, 2010
Posted Under: Surf


I just got back from Hawaii. Sorry folks. But it was GOOOOOD.



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Hawaii Surf

Yes indeed. February has not been bad to me. Just got back from Hawaii for my Honeymoon. Ill spare you folks the touristy/romantic pics and jump right into the nitty-gritty.

Here's the recap:

North Shore.
It's everything all the hype makes it out to be. Waves were in the serious side of things the moment i arrived. I linked up w/ Jerry Burdine. Jerry is OG South Beach, and has been killing it since he was a grom. He's now out on the North Shore with wifey and 3 kids. Working and surfing every day. Im psyched to say that Jerry has adapted to the bigger surf on Hawaii, and charges just the same out there as he does here.

The surf peaked on the following morning of my arrival, and was in the shit-your-pants/fuck-my-life size range. Solid 6'-8' Hawaiian (Translation: 15'-20' with bigger sets pushing through.

The Volcom Pipe Pro was on during the peak of the swell and it was Gnar-gnar. You know things are hairy When Reef McIntosh and Dane Geicodauskas are saying it's too gnarly to hold heats. I watched and shot some pics of the semi's for about an hour or two til Jerry and I paddled out over at Pueana point (i probably butchered that name). Come by the shop and I'll give you a story about that. Let's just say i didn't "surf" the big waves of the North Shore, however I did "swim" the fuck outta the big waves of the North Shore. Here's some pics below from The North Shore portion of my trip.


Hawaii North Shore
Volcom Pipeline Pro.
Hawaii North Shore
Volcom Pipeline Pro.
Hawaii North Shore
Volcom Pipeline Pro.
Hawaii North Shore
Volcom Pipeline Pro.
Hawaii North Shore
Volcom Pipeline Pro.
Hawaii North Shore
Turtle Bay.
Hawaii North Shore
Waimea.

Big Island.
Big Island Recap. I stayed at the Four Seasons Resort (hey, I was on Honeymoon, okay??). I poked around and check out all the spots. Not much in the way of surf. Word is that it need a BIG swell to make all the nooks and crannies here break, and I was in between swells. Which I was fine with, I was still pretty zen-like after my last session at Rocky, Gas Chamber's etc.. So I went into Honeymoon mode.

Here's Banyans as well as some sketchy little wave behind the Four Seasons. The wave behind the hotel felt Sharkey as f*ck! I mean, cmon. Turtles "resting" remain 20 feet away??! What the fuck are they resting from??!


Four Seasons Hawaii
Four Seasons Resort.
Four Seasons Hawaii
Turtle!

Kauai.
Kauai is THE SHIT! Another swell filled in while i was on The Big Island. Not as big as the first (which i was not mad at!) I was pretty out of the loop as to surfing, I figured i had scored on the North and anything else would be bonus at this point.

Hanalei Bay was were I stayed and it was absolutely firing! Right-hand point break in the double overhead size range. Flawless conditions (according to the locals, it usually blows out in the afternoon, it was light winds the entire time i was there!). Hanalei isn't a deadly/hollow wave, but it's big and juicy, Think Swami's or maybe even Rincon or Malibu in warm water.

Other waves on the Island and shown in the pics below are Cannons (Kauai's version of Pipe) and some random wave I came across. Apparently when a swell fills into Kauai, there all all types of little reefs and bays that turn on. The left pictured below didnt even have a name!

Overall, I must say it was an excellent Surf Trip/Honeymoon. I guess I should thank my wife for letting me surf so much! Thanks, babe!


Hanalei Bay
Hanalei Bay. 200+ Yard long rights @ 8'-12'!!!
Hanalei Bay
Hanalei Bay. 200+ Yard long rights @ 8'-12'!!!
Hanalei Bay
Hanalei Bay.
Hanalei Bay
Random unnamed left point, Kauai.
Hanalei Bay
Cannons.

 
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